Arroz de lingueirão

Step 1: Rinse 2 ¼ lb razor clams and stand them upright in a jug of cold water mixed with 1 tbsp salt for 1 hour so they spit out sand. Discard any with broken shells and any that stay limp and gaping when you touch the meat, since live razor clams pull in or twitch.

Step 2: Warm 4 tbsp olive oil in a wide, heavy pan over a medium heat. Add 1 onion, 4 garlic cloves and ½ green pepper and cook for 8 minutes, until soft and starting to colour at the edges.

Step 3: Add 3 ripe tomatoes and 1 bay leaf and cook for 6–8 minutes, stirring, until the tomato breaks down into a thick red sauce.

Step 4: Pour in ½ cup dry white wine and let it bubble for 2 minutes until the smell of alcohol fades.

Step 5: Stir in 10 ½ oz short-grain rice to coat it in the sauce, then add 5 ½ cups boiling water and bring back to the boil. Season with salt and simmer, stirring now and then, for 14–15 minutes, until the rice is almost tender. It should look like a thick soup; add more boiling water if it gets dry.

Step 6: Meanwhile, cut the razor clams in half crosswise, shells and all, after a final rinse. Lay them on the rice, cover and cook for 2 minutes, until the meat turns opaque and the shells have opened fully. Discard any that stay shut.

Step 7: Turn off the heat, stir in most of 1 bunch fresh coriander and leave for 2 minutes. A common mistake is letting this rice stand longer: it keeps drinking the broth, so serve it in warm bowls straight away, scattered with the rest of the coriander.