Arroz negro

Step 1: Make the all-i-oli first. Pound the 3 cloves garlic with the ½ tsp coarse salt in a mortar to a smooth, wet paste.

Step 2: Add the ¾ cup mild olive oil a few drops at a time, working the pestle round in one direction, until it thickens into a pale, stiff sauce. Common mistake: pouring the oil in too fast. The sauce splits into oily garlic; if it does, start again with a fresh clove and add the split mixture drop by drop. Stir in the 1 tsp lemon juice if you like, and keep it in the fridge.

Step 3: Heat the 5 tbsp olive oil in a 34–36 cm paella pan or wide frying pan over a high heat. Add the 1 ⅛ lb cleaned squid and fry for 3–4 minutes, stirring, until it turns opaque white and the liquid it releases has bubbled away.

Step 4: Lower the heat to medium, add the 1 onion and 1 green pepper and cook for 10 minutes, stirring, until soft and golden. Add the 3 cloves garlic for the last minute.

Step 5: Add the 1 ripe tomato and cook for 4–5 minutes, until it darkens to a thick paste. Stir in the 1 tsp sweet pimentón (Spanish paprika) for 10 seconds.

Step 6: Add the 11 ½ oz short round paella rice (bomba or senia) and stir for 1 minute so every grain is coated. Stir the ¼ oz squid or cuttlefish ink into the hot 4 ½ cups fish stock, pour it over the rice and add the 1 tsp salt. Stir once to spread the rice evenly, then stop stirring.

Step 7: Boil over a high heat for 8 minutes, then lower to medium-low and simmer for 8–10 minutes more, until the stock is absorbed and the rice is just tender. Give the pan a quarter-turn now and then so it cooks evenly. The squid will be soft by now: it has either seconds or a long simmer, and this is the long simmer.

Step 8: Turn the heat up for the last minute to toast the base lightly, then take off the heat, cover with a tea towel and rest for 5 minutes. Serve from the pan with the all-i-oli on the side. If you made your own fish stock ahead, cool it quickly and keep it in the fridge for up to 2 days.