Bagara baingan

Step 1: Trim the stalks of 1 ⅛ lb small round purple aubergines (brinjals) to 1 cm, leaving the green caps on. Cut a deep cross into each from the base, stopping 1 cm short of the stalk, so they open like flowers but stay in one piece. Drop them into a bowl of cold water with 1 tsp salt as you go; this stops them browning and draws out bitterness.

Step 2: In a dry frying pan over a medium-low heat, roast 1 ⅜ oz raw peanuts for 4–5 minutes until golden, then 3 tbsp desiccated coconut for 1 minute until light golden, then 2 tbsp white sesame seeds, 1 tbsp coriander seeds and 1 tsp cumin seeds for 1–2 minutes until the sesame smells toasty and starts to pop. Roast each separately and tip out each time.

Step 3: Heat 1 tbsp of 1 tbsp sunflower or groundnut oil in the same pan and fry 1 onion over a medium heat for 7–8 minutes, until deep golden-brown. These caramelised onions give bagara baingan its dark colour and sweet depth.

Step 4: Blend the roasted nuts, seeds, spices and onion with 150 ml of ½ cup water to a very smooth, thick paste, scraping down the jar a few times.

Step 5: Drain the aubergines and pat them very dry. Heat the remaining 4 tbsp sunflower or groundnut oil in a wide, heavy pan over a medium heat and fry them for 8–10 minutes, turning gently, until the skins are wrinkled and a knife slides into the thickest part with just a little resistance. They should be about three-quarters cooked. Lift out and keep the oil.

Step 6: In the same oil, add the ½ tsp mustard seeds; when it crackles, add ½ tsp nigella seeds (kalonji), ¼ tsp fenugreek seeds, 2 dried red chillies and 15 curry leaves and let them sizzle for 10–15 seconds until the leaves turn crisp and glossy.

Step 7: Add 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste and stir for 1 minute, then ½ tsp ground turmeric and 1 ½ tsp red chilli powder for 20 seconds. Add the masala paste and fry, stirring constantly over a medium-low heat, for 4–5 minutes, until it darkens and oil starts to separate at the edges.

Step 8: Stir in the remaining 1 ¼ cups water, 2 tbsp tamarind paste, 1 tbsp jaggery and 1 tsp salt and bring to a gentle simmer. The gravy should be a pouring consistency; it thickens as the aubergines cook.

Step 9: Nestle the aubergines in the gravy, spooning it into the cuts. Cover and cook over a low heat for 8–10 minutes, until the aubergines are completely tender and the oil rises to the top. Shake the pan rather than stirring, so they keep their shape.

Step 10: Taste for balance: sour first, then nutty and just sweet. Scatter with 2 tbsp fresh coriander and rest for 15 minutes before serving; like most Hyderabadi gravies it tastes better a few hours later.