Bagna càuda

Step 1: Put 1 ⅛ lb small waxy potatoes in a pan of cold salted water, bring to the boil and simmer until a knife slides in easily. Drain and keep warm.

Step 2: Meanwhile put 3 heads garlic and 1 cup whole milk in a small pan and simmer over a low heat until the garlic is very soft and squashes easily against the side of the pan.

Step 3: Drain the garlic (discard the milk) and mash it to a paste with a fork, or chop it very finely.

Step 4: Put the garlic in a heavy pan or terracotta pot with 1 cup extra virgin olive oil over the lowest possible heat. Add 3 ½ oz anchovy fillets in oil and stir with a wooden spoon until they dissolve into a thick, cloudy sauce. It should steam gently but never bubble.

Step 5: Stir in 1 oz butter until melted and smooth. Taste: it should be rich and savoury, with no raw garlic bite.

Step 6: Arrange 2 red and yellow peppers, 1 fennel bulb, 1 celery heart, the warm potatoes and any of the other vegetables on a big platter.

Step 7: Set the pot over a fondue burner or tea-light warmer on the table and let everyone dip, stirring the sauce now and then so the anchovy doesn't settle.