Bhoger khichuri

Step 1: Put 5 ½ oz split yellow moong dal in a dry heavy pan over a medium-low heat and roast, stirring all the time, for 6–8 minutes until it smells nutty and most grains are light golden. Tip onto a plate, cool for a minute, then rinse once and drain.

Step 2: Heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in a large heavy pot over a medium-high heat until it just smokes, then lower the heat. Fry 2 potatoes and 9 oz cauliflower for 4–5 minutes until golden in patches. Lift out and set aside.

Step 3: Add 1 tbsp of the 1 tbsp ghee to the same oil. Add 2 bay leaves, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 2 dried red chillies, 1 cinnamon stick, 4 green cardamom pods and 4 cloves and fry for 30 seconds until the cumin crackles and darkens slightly.

Step 4: Add 2 tbsp fresh ginger, 1 tsp ground turmeric, 1 tsp ground cumin and 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder with a splash of water and stir for 1 minute until the raw ginger smell goes and the oil looks glossy.

Step 5: Add the roasted dal and 5 ½ oz gobindobhog rice and stir for 2 minutes so every grain is coated. Pour in 1 litre of the 4 ¼ cups hot water, add 1 ½ tsp salt and bring to the boil, then simmer half covered for 15 minutes, stirring now and then.

Step 6: Add the fried potato and cauliflower, 1 tomato and 3 green chillies, and the rest of the 2 cups hot water. Simmer for 10–12 minutes, stirring often from the bottom so it does not catch, until the potato is soft and the dal has collapsed into the rice.

Step 7: Stir in 3 ½ oz green peas and 1 tsp sugar and cook for 3–4 minutes. The khichuri is ready when it is thick but still slides off the spoon; add a little more hot water if it is stiff.

Step 8: Turn off the heat, stir in the rest of the 2 tbsp ghee and ½ tsp Bengali garam masala, cover and rest for 5 minutes. Serve hot.