Biang biang noodles

Step 1: Mix 10 ½ oz strong white bread flour or plain flour and ½ tsp salt, add ¾ cup water and knead for 10 minutes into a firm, smooth dough. Rest it covered for 15 minutes, then knead again for 2 minutes.

Step 2: Divide into 6 pieces, roll each into a thick oblong about 12 x 4 cm, brush all over with 2 tbsp vegetable oil and lay on a plate. Cover tightly with cling film and rest for at least 30 minutes; an hour is better, or overnight in the fridge.

Step 3: Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Roll one piece to about 25 cm long. Press a chopstick along its length to make a groove, hold both ends and pull, bouncing it gently on the counter, until it's about 1 m long and 3–4 mm thick. Tear it apart along the groove into a loop.

Step 4: Drop the noodles into the boiling water as you go; they cook in about 1–2 minutes, once they float and look slightly translucent. Blanch 5 ½ oz pak choi or choy sum and 2 ⅞ oz beansprouts in the same water for 30 seconds. Drain everything into two wide bowls.

Step 5: Pile 2 tbsp Chinese chilli flakes, 4 cloves garlic, 2 spring onions, ½ tsp ground cumin and 1 pinch salt on top of each bowl of noodles.

Step 6: Heat 5 tbsp vegetable oil in a small pan until it just starts to smoke. Common mistake: oil that isn't hot enough; the chilli won't sizzle and stays raw. Pour it straight over the toppings; it should crackle loudly.

Step 7: Add 2 tbsp light soy sauce and 2 tbsp Chinkiang black vinegar and toss everything thoroughly at the table.