Bistecca alla fiorentina

Step 1: Take 2 ⅝ lb T-bone steak out of the fridge 45 minutes before cooking so the middle isn't fridge-cold, keeping it covered on a plate. Use a separate board and knife for the raw meat.

Step 2: Light a charcoal grill and let it burn down to very hot, glowing embers with a light layer of ash, or heat a heavy cast-iron griddle over a high heat until smoking.

Step 3: Pat the steak dry and lay it on the grill. Leave it alone, without pressing or moving it, until a dark crust has formed and it releases easily.

Step 4: Turn it with tongs (never a fork, which lets the juices out) and sear the second side the same way.

Step 5: Stand the steak upright on its bone, over a slightly cooler part of the grill or with the griddle heat turned to medium, and cook until the thickest part of the meat (away from the bone) reads 126°F for rare, the Florentine way. Go to 135°F for medium-rare or 145°F for medium.

Step 6: Move it to a warm board, lay 2 sprigs rosemary on top if using, and leave it to rest, loosely covered with foil, for 5–10 minutes. Cutting it straight off the grill is the usual mistake: the juices flood the board instead of staying in the meat.

Step 7: Cut the fillet and the sirloin away from the bone and slice each across the grain into 1.5 cm slices. Arrange around the bone.

Step 8: Season generously with 1 ½ tsp coarse sea salt and ½ tsp black pepper, drizzle with 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil and serve straight away, with 1 lemon on the side if you like.