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Boat noodles

ก๋วยเตี๋ยวเรือ (kuay teow ruea) — small bowls of dark, spiced beef noodle soup

The name goes back to the canals of Ayutthaya and Bangkok, where vendors cooked noodles in narrow wooden boats and passed tiny bowls up to customers on the bank; the bowls are still small, and at Victory Monument diners stack ten or more empties beside them. The broth is what people come for: beef simmered with star anise, cinnamon, galangal and pandan, darkened with soy and red fermented bean curd, then sharpened at the table with chilli vinegar. Stalls traditionally stir in fresh cow's or pig's blood for body; here it is optional and left out by default, and the soup is still rich and deep. Each bowl gets thin rice noodles, tender beef, beef balls, morning glory and Thai basil, finished with crisp garlic and pork crackling. Chef's tip: keep the pot slightly under-salted and let everyone season their own bowl with fish sauce, sugar, chilli and vinegar.
Total time
120 min
Difficulty
hard
Serves
6
One step at a time, big text, timers, read-aloud. Your screen stays on.

Ingredients

Serves6

For the broth

For the bowls

To finish

Method

0/11 done
  1. Step 1: Put 1 ½ lb beef shin or brisket and 1 ⅛ lb beef bones in a large pot, cover with cold water and bring to the boil over a high heat. Boil for 5 minutes, then drain and rinse off the grey scum; scrub the pot. This keeps the finished broth clean-tasting.

    12 min
  2. Step 2: Toast 3 star anise, 1 cinnamon stick and 1 tsp white peppercorns in a dry pan over a medium heat for 1–2 minutes, until fragrant.

    2 min
  3. Step 3: Return the meat and bones to the clean pot with 12 ½ cups water, the toasted spices, 1 oz galangal, 2 stalks lemongrass, 4 coriander roots, 1 head garlic and 3 pandan leaves. Bring to the boil, then lower to a gentle simmer with the lid ajar.

    10 min
  4. Step 4: Simmer for 1¼–1½ hours, skimming now and then, until a piece of shin is tender enough to cut with a spoon. Add a little hot water if the level drops below the meat.

    80 min
  5. Step 5: Mash 2 cubes red fermented bean curd with its liquid and stir it into the pot with 3 tbsp light soy sauce, 2 tbsp dark soy sauce, 1 oz rock sugar or palm sugar and 1 tsp salt. Simmer for 10 minutes. Fish out the bones and aromatics, keeping the shin. The broth should be dark, savoury and slightly sweet, and a touch under-seasoned.

    10 min
  6. Step 6: While the broth finishes, soak 10 ½ oz thin dried rice noodles (sen lek) in warm water for 10 minutes until pliable, and bring a separate pan of water to a rolling boil for blanching.

    10 min
  7. Step 7: Drop 12 beef balls into the simmering broth for 5 minutes, until heated right through.

    5 min
  8. Step 8: Working one bowl at a time, put a small handful of noodles with some 7 oz morning glory (water spinach) and 5 ½ oz bean sprouts in a noodle basket or sieve and dip it in the boiling water for 20–30 seconds, until the noodles are just soft. Drain well and tip into the bowl. Overcooking is the common slip: the noodles keep softening once the broth goes on.

  9. Step 9: Dip a few slices of 7 oz beef sirloin or rump into the simmering broth in a sieve for 30–60 seconds, until no pink remains, and add them to the bowl with a few pieces of shin and 2 beef balls. Keep raw-beef plates and boards away from the garnishes.

    1 min
  10. Step 10: If using ½ cup fresh cow's or pig's blood, whisk it into about 500 ml of the broth in a small pan off the heat, then bring it to a full boil over a medium heat, stirring all the time, for 2–3 minutes until it darkens and thickens the broth. Never add blood to a bowl uncooked; skip it entirely if you can't buy it fresh from a butcher you trust.

    3 min
  11. Step 11: Ladle the hot broth over, about 200 ml per small bowl. Top with 1 handful Thai sweet basil leaves, a spoonful of 4 tbsp crispy fried garlic in oil and some 1 ¾ oz pork crackling. Put 4 tbsp chilli vinegar, 2 tbsp fish sauce and 2 tsp dried chilli flakes on the table for everyone to season their own.

Nutrition per serving

Calories
470 kcal
Protein
36 g
Carbs
52 g
Fat
13 g
Fibre
2 g

Nutrition values are estimates.

K
Recipe by

KrazyBadal

All recipes by this chef →

Good to know

How long does boat noodles take?
About 120 minutes in total: 20 minutes to prepare and 100 minutes to cook.
How many people does it serve?
6 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
Is it very spicy?
It has some heat. Use less chilli for a milder version, or more if you like it hot.
What can I use instead of star anise?
½ tsp aniseeds or fennel seeds per star.
What can I use instead of cinnamon stick?
½ tsp ground cinnamon per stick.

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