Canh măng (dried bamboo shoot soup)

Step 1: Drain the soaked 5 ½ oz dried bamboo shoots, cover with fresh water and 1 tsp salt, boil for 20 minutes and drain.

Step 2: Repeat the boiling twice more with fresh water each time, until the water stays almost clear and the shoots smell clean, not sour. Common mistake: boiling only once, which leaves the soup bitter with a strong fermented smell.

Step 3: When cool enough, tear the shoots into thin strips and cut into 5 cm lengths.

Step 4: Blanch 2 ¼ lb pork hock in boiling water for 3 minutes, drain and rinse.

Step 5: Fry 3 shallots in 1 tbsp neutral oil in a large pot over medium heat for 2 minutes until golden, add the bamboo and stir-fry for 3 minutes until fragrant.

Step 6: Add the pork, 2.5 litres water and 3 tbsp fish sauce, bring to a boil, then simmer gently, partly covered, for 1½ hours, skimming, until the hock is tender and well past 160°F. Chicken variation: simmer only 40 minutes, until the thickest piece reaches 165°F and the juices run clear.

Step 7: Season with ½ tsp ground black pepper and more fish sauce to taste, then ladle into bowls and scatter with 3 spring onions and 1 handful coriander.