Chainsoo

Step 1: Put 7 oz whole black urad (sabut urad) in a dry heavy pan over a medium-low heat. Roast, stirring constantly, for 10–12 minutes until the seeds smell toasty and nutty and the inside of a split one is light golden. Don't let them blacken; over-roasting is the classic mistake and makes the dal bitter.

Step 2: Spread the urad on a plate to cool for 10 minutes, then grind to a coarse powder, like rough semolina, in a spice grinder or mixer. A fine flour turns gluey.

Step 3: Heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in an iron kadhai or heavy pot over a high heat until it just smokes, then lower to medium. Add 1 tsp cumin seeds, 2 dried red chillies and ¼ tsp gluten-free asafoetida (hing) and let them crackle for 15 seconds.

Step 4: Add 6 garlic cloves and 1 tbsp fresh ginger and fry for a minute until the garlic turns pale gold. Stir in 2 tsp ground coriander, ½ tsp ground turmeric and 1 tsp red chilli powder for 20 seconds.

Step 5: Add the ground urad and stir for 2 minutes so it toasts again in the oil and smells nutty. Now pour in 4 ¼ cups hot water a little at a time, whisking or stirring hard after each addition to break up lumps.

Step 6: Add 1 tsp salt and bring to a gentle boil. Cover partly and simmer over a low heat for 25–30 minutes, stirring often and scraping the bottom, until the dal is thick, dark and creamy with a slightly grainy feel. Add a splash of hot water if it sets too firm.

Step 7: Taste, adjust the salt, scatter over ⅓ oz fresh coriander and serve hot with rice.