Chaman kaliya

Step 1: Heat 4 tbsp mustard oil in a frying pan over a high heat until it just smokes, then lower to medium. Fry the 14 oz paneer in one layer for 2 minutes a side, until the edges are pale gold. Don't take it to deep brown or it toughens.

Step 2: Lift the paneer straight into 2 cups warm water and leave it there. Skipping this soak is the usual mistake: fried paneer goes rubbery in the gravy, while soaked paneer turns soft and soaks up flavour.

Step 3: Keep 2 tablespoons of the oil in the pan and put it back on a medium heat. Add 3 cloves, 4 green cardamom pods, 1 cinnamon stick and 1 bay leaf and fry for 30 seconds until fragrant, then add ¼ tsp gluten-free asafoetida (hing).

Step 4: Take the pan off the heat, stir in 1 ½ tsp ground turmeric for 10 seconds, then pour in ¾ cup water at once. Turmeric burns fast in hot oil, so have the water ready.

Step 5: Add 2 tsp ground fennel, 1 tsp ground dry ginger (sonth), 1 tsp salt and ½ tsp sugar. Bring to the boil over a medium heat and boil for 5 minutes, until the liquid smells sweet with fennel and has reduced slightly.

Step 6: Add the paneer with about 100 ml of its soaking water, then pour in 1 ¼ cups whole milk. Simmer over a low heat for 10–12 minutes, stirring gently, until the gravy is silky, bright yellow and thin enough to pour over rice.

Step 7: Sprinkle in ¼ tsp ground green cardamom, check the salt and serve hot with steamed rice.