Chaozhou braised goose

Step 1: Rub 3 ⅓ lb goose legs or duck legs all over with 1 tbsp salt and leave for 15 minutes; this firms the skin. Use a separate board for the raw meat.

Step 2: Rinse off the salt, put the legs in a large pot of cold water and bring to the boil. Blanch for 3 minutes, until grey scum rises, then drain and rinse the legs clean.

Step 3: Heat 2 tbsp neutral oil in a large heavy pot over a medium heat. Fry 2 ⅛ oz galangal, 1 head garlic and 4 shallots for 3 minutes until fragrant and lightly golden.

Step 4: Add 4 star anise, 1 cinnamon stick or cassia bark, 4 cloves, 1 tsp fennel seeds, 1 tsp five-spice powder, 1 piece dried tangerine peel and 3 bay leaves and stir for 30 seconds until you can smell the spices. Add 2 ⅛ oz rock sugar and stir until it starts to melt.

Step 5: Pour in ¾ cup light soy sauce, 2 ½ tbsp dark soy sauce, 2 tbsp fish sauce, ½ cup Shaoxing rice wine and 8 ¼ cups water. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 20 minutes so the spices infuse.

Step 6: Lower in the legs, skin side down; the stock should just cover them. Bring back to a bare simmer, with just a few lazy bubbles. A common mistake is letting it boil hard: the skin splits and the meat turns stringy.

Step 7: Simmer gently, half covered, for 60 minutes for duck legs or 80–90 minutes for goose legs, turning them every 20 minutes and spooning stock over any exposed skin. Add the eggs and tofu for the last 20 minutes if using.

Step 8: Check the meat: a skewer should slide into the thickest part easily, and the meat must be at least 165°F (165 °F) with no pink juices. Turn off the heat and leave the legs to soak in the stock for 30 minutes to soak up colour and flavour.

Step 9: While it soaks, stir 4 cloves garlic, ¼ cup white rice vinegar and 1 tsp sugar together in a small bowl.

Step 10: Lift the legs out, let them cool for 5 minutes, then slice the meat off the bone into thin pieces, keeping skin on each slice. Spoon over a little stock and serve with the garlic vinegar, eggs and tofu.

Step 11: Strain the stock, cool it quickly and chill it within 2 hours. Lift off the fat, then keep it in the fridge for up to 5 days or freeze it; always boil it for 5 minutes before reusing.