Chhundo

Step 1: Sterilise the jar and lid: wash in hot soapy water, rinse, then dry in a 250°F oven for 15 minutes (or in strong sun for a few hours). Cool completely; jar, lid, bowls, spoons and your hands must be bone dry.

Step 2: Wash the 2 ¼ lb raw rajapuri mangoes and dry it completely with a cloth. Peel and grate on the large holes of a box grater, stopping at the stone.

Step 3: Mix the grated mango with 2 tsp salt and 1 tsp ground turmeric in a large steel or glass bowl and leave for 1–2 hours, stirring once; it will release some juice. Do not drain it.

Step 4: Stir in 1 ¾ lb sugar until evenly mixed. Now choose the sun method or the stove method.

Step 5: Sun method: tip the mixture into the sterilised jar or a wide steel pan, tie muslin over the top and set it in strong sun every day for 7–10 days, bringing it in at night. Stir once a day with a dry spoon. It is ready when the sugar has fully dissolved and the syrup reaches one-string consistency.

Step 6: Stove method: cook the mixture in a heavy, wide pan over a medium-low heat, stirring often, for 20–25 minutes. The sugar melts, the syrup turns clear and the shreds become translucent. Stop when a drop of cooled syrup pulled between finger and thumb makes one thread. Common mistake: cooking it longer, which sets it hard when cold.

Step 7: Let it cool to lukewarm, then stir in 2 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder, 1 tbsp hot red chilli powder, 1 ½ tsp roasted ground cumin, and 4 cloves and 1 ⅛ in cinnamon stick if using.

Step 8: When completely cold, spoon into the dry jar and close tightly. Keep in a cool cupboard for up to a year, using a clean dry spoon each time, and refrigerate once opened in hot humid weather. Discard if mould or a fermented smell appears.