Chilaquiles verdes

Step 1: Put 1 ⅛ lb tomatillos and 2 serrano chillies in a pan, cover with water and bring to a simmer over a medium heat. Cook for 6–8 minutes, until the tomatillos turn from bright to olive green and soften. Don't let them burst, or the salsa turns watery and sour. (Skip this if using tinned tomatillos.)

Step 2: While they cook, heat 1 cup vegetable oil in a deep frying pan to 350°F, or until a tortilla wedge sizzles hard straight away. Fry 12 corn tortillas in batches for 1½–2 minutes, until golden and rigid and the bubbling has slowed. Drain on kitchen paper and sprinkle with a pinch of the salt. Short on time? Use plain unsalted tortilla chips; they are not always gluten free.

Step 3: Lift the tomatillos and chillies into a blender with 100 ml of their cooking water. Add 1 clove garlic, a quarter of ¼ white onion, ½ oz fresh coriander and the rest of 1 tsp salt and blend until smooth.

Step 4: Heat 1 ½ tbsp vegetable oil in a wide pan over a medium-high heat. Pour in the salsa (stand back, it spits) and simmer for 4 minutes until it darkens slightly and thickens. Frying the salsa takes off the raw edge.

Step 5: Meanwhile fry 4 eggs in a little of the hot frying oil over a medium heat for 2–3 minutes, until the whites are set and the edges crisp but the yolks are runny.

Step 6: Slice the rest of ¼ white onion into thin rings. Tip the totopos into the salsa and toss for 30–60 seconds, until coated and just softening at the edges but still crunchy in the middle.

Step 7: Divide between plates and top each with a fried egg, a drizzle of ¼ cup Mexican crema, crumbled 2 ⅞ oz queso fresco, onion rings and 1 avocado if using. Serve immediately.