Sichuan chilli oil wontons

Step 1: Heat 1 tbsp vegetable oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat and fry 3 ½ oz fresh shiitake mushrooms for 3–4 minutes until dry and browned. Cool for a few minutes.

Step 2: Mix 10 ½ oz firm tofu, the mushrooms, 1 ¾ oz Chinese chives or spring onions, 1 tsp fresh ginger, 1 tbsp light soy sauce, 1 tsp toasted sesame oil, ¼ tsp ground white pepper and 1 tbsp cornflour until it holds together when pressed.

Step 3: Put 1 heaped teaspoon of filling in the centre of each of the 32 square wonton wrappers. Wet the edges, fold into a triangle and press out the air. Bring the two side corners together below the filling, dab with water and pinch to seal. Keep finished wontons under a damp cloth.

Step 4: For each bowl, stir together a quarter of 4 tbsp Sichuan chilli oil with its sediment, 2 tbsp Chinkiang black vinegar, 2 tbsp light soy sauce, 2 tsp sugar and 3 cloves garlic, plus ½ tsp ground Sichuan pepper if using.

Step 5: Bring a large pan of water to a rolling boil. Cook the wontons in two batches. Common mistake: tipping them all in at once, which drops the temperature so they stick and tear. Stir once, and when they float and the wrappers turn translucent, give them 1 more minute (about 3–4 minutes in all).

Step 6: Lift the wontons straight into the bowls with a splash of the cooking water, toss in the sauce and scatter with 1 spring onion and 1 tsp toasted sesame seeds. Eat at once.