Cholar dal

Step 1: Drain 7 oz split bengal gram (chana dal) and put in a pan with 3 ¼ cups water and ½ tsp ground turmeric. Bring to a boil, skim off the foam, then simmer partly covered for 30–35 minutes (or pressure-cook for 2 whistles), until each grain is soft enough to crush between your fingers but still holds its shape. Mushy cholar dal is a mistake; it should look like separate grains in a thick sauce.

Step 2: Heat 2 tbsp ghee in a small pan over a medium heat. Fry 1 ¾ oz fresh coconut for 2–3 minutes until golden at the edges, then add 2 tbsp raisins for 20 seconds until they puff. Lift both out.

Step 3: In the same ghee add 1 tsp cumin seeds, 2 bay leaves, 2 dried red chillies, 1 cinnamon stick, 3 green cardamom pods and 3 cloves. When the cumin darkens and the spices smell sweet (about 30 seconds), add 1 pinch gluten-free asafoetida (hing), 1 tsp ginger paste and 2 green chillies and stir for 30 seconds.

Step 4: Pour the tempering into the dal, add 1 ¼ tsp salt, 2 tsp sugar and the coconut and raisins. Simmer for 5 minutes, stirring, until thick enough to coat a spoon. The sugar should balance, not dominate.

Step 5: Sprinkle with ½ tsp Bengali garam masala (cardamom, cinnamon, clove), cover and rest for 5 minutes so the aroma soaks in. Serve hot with luchi or rice.