Chongqing grilled fish

Step 1: Heat the oven to 450°F (400°F fan). Cut along the back of 1 whole sea bass, tilapia or carp from head to tail so it opens out flat like a book, keeping the belly in one piece (or ask the fishmonger to butterfly it). Score the thick flesh twice on each side. Use a separate board for the raw fish and wash it afterwards.

Step 2: Rub the fish all over with 1 tsp salt, 1 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine and 1 tsp ground Sichuan pepper and leave in the fridge for 10 minutes. Meanwhile boil 1 potato in salted water for 5 minutes, until just tender, and drain.

Step 3: Pat the fish very dry with kitchen paper. Oil a large roasting tin, lay the fish skin side up, opened flat, and brush with 2 tbsp neutral oil.

Step 4: Roast for 15–18 minutes, until the skin is blistered and golden and the flesh at the thickest point is opaque and flakes easily (145°F / 145 °F). For extra colour, finish under a hot grill for 2 minutes.

Step 5: While the fish roasts, heat 3 tbsp neutral oil in a wok over a medium-low heat. Fry 2 tbsp Sichuan chilli bean paste (doubanjiang) for 1 minute, until the oil is red, then add 1 tbsp fermented black beans, 15 dried red chillies, 2 tsp Sichuan peppercorns, 4 cloves garlic and ½ oz fresh ginger and stir for 1 minute, until fragrant.

Step 6: Add 1 onion and 2 sticks celery and stir-fry for 2 minutes, then add 7 oz bean sprouts and the potato slices and toss for 1 minute more.

Step 7: Pour in 1 ¾ cups chicken stock or water, add 1 tsp sugar and 1 tbsp light soy sauce and bring to the boil. Simmer for 3 minutes; taste for salt.

Step 8: Lift the fish onto a plate, spread the vegetables in the roasting tin, lay the fish back on top and pour the sauce over and around it.

Step 9: Return the tin to the oven for 8–10 minutes, until the sauce is bubbling around the edges. Scatter with 1 handful coriander, 2 tbsp roasted peanuts and 2 spring onions if you like. Serve in the tin, ideally kept warm on a table burner or hot plate, and watch for small bones.