Delhi chole kulche

Step 1: For the kulchas, mix 10 ½ oz plain flour, 1 tsp baking powder, ¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda, 1 tsp sugar and ¾ tsp salt in a bowl. Add 2 ⅛ oz plain yogurt and 1 tbsp vegetable oil, then ½ cup warm milk a little at a time, kneading for 5 minutes into a soft, smooth, slightly sticky dough. Cover and rest in a warm place for 2 hours; it should feel puffy when pressed.

Step 2: Drain 7 oz dried white peas (safed matar) and put them in a pressure cooker or large pan with 4 ¼ cups water, ¼ tsp ground turmeric and 1 tsp salt. Pressure-cook for 4–5 whistles, or simmer covered for 60–75 minutes, until each pea crushes easily between your fingers but still holds its shape. Overcooking to a mush is the usual mistake; the peas should stay whole.

Step 3: Lightly mash a ladleful of the peas against the side of the pan and stir them back in. Simmer uncovered for 5 minutes so the liquid turns thick and creamy. Keep warm.

Step 4: Divide the dough into 8 balls. Press each into an oval about 5mm thick with your fingers or a rolling pin, sprinkle with 1 tsp nigella seeds (kalonji) and a little ⅛ oz fresh coriander, and press them in.

Step 5: Heat a tawa or heavy frying pan over a medium heat. Put a kulcha on, seed-side up, cover with a lid and cook for 2 minutes until the base has golden spots and the top puffs. Flip, cook for 1 minute, then brush with 1 oz butter. Repeat with the rest and keep them wrapped in a cloth.

Step 6: To serve, spoon the warm peas onto plates and pile on 1 red onion, 1 tomato, 3 green chillies, 1 tbsp fresh ginger and the rest of ½ oz fresh coriander.

Step 7: Squeeze over 2 tbsp lime juice and sprinkle with 1 tsp roasted cumin powder, 1 ½ tsp chaat masala, ½ tsp red chilli powder and ½ tsp black salt (kala namak). Drizzle with 3 tbsp sweet tamarind chutney if you like it sweet-sour, and serve at once with the hot kulchas.