Dwaeji gukbap

Step 1: Put 3 ⅓ lb pork bones (neck, leg or back bones), cut into pieces in a large bowl of cold water and soak for 30 minutes, changing the water once, to draw out the blood. Soak 1 ⅓ lb boneless pork shoulder or belly alongside in a separate bowl.

Step 2: Put the bones in a large stockpot, cover with fresh cold water and bring to the boil over a high heat. Boil for 10 minutes, then drain and scrub each bone under running water to remove the scum and any dark bits. Wash the pot too.

Step 3: Return the bones to the clean pot with 16 ¾ cups water. Bring to a full boil over a high heat and keep it there, partly covered, for 1 hour 20 minutes.

Step 4: Common mistake: turning the heat down to a gentle simmer, as for a clear stock. A milky gukbap broth needs a hard, rolling boil the whole time; the bubbling breaks the fat and gelatine into tiny drops that turn it white. Top up with boiling water whenever the bones start to show.

Step 5: Add 1 ⅓ lb boneless pork shoulder or belly, 1 onion, 1 bulb garlic, 1 oz ginger, 4 spring onion whites and 1 tsp black peppercorns. Keep boiling briskly for 50 to 60 minutes, until the pork is tender when pierced with a skewer and the broth is cloudy and white.

Step 6: Lift out the pork and leave it for 10 minutes, then cut it into thin slices. Strain the broth and discard the bones and vegetables. You should have about 2 litres; if there's much more, boil it down for a few minutes.

Step 7: Toss 2 ⅞ oz garlic chives (buchu) with 1 tsp Korean chilli flakes (gochugaru) and 1 tsp toasted sesame oil.

Step 8: Put a scoop of 1 ⅓ lb cooked short-grain rice and a handful of pork slices in each deep bowl. Ladle over very hot broth, pour it off back into the pot and ladle it over again; this warms the rice and pork right through, as gukbap cooks do.

Step 9: Top with 2 spring onions and a spoonful of 4 tsp gochujang or Korean chilli paste. Serve with 2 tbsp salted fermented shrimp (saeujeot), 1 tsp salt, the chives, 1 onion and 2 long green chillies on the table so everyone can season their own bowl.

Step 10: Cool leftover broth quickly and refrigerate it within 2 hours. It keeps for 3 days in the fridge or 3 months in the freezer; it sets to a jelly when cold, which is a good sign.