Ellu sadam (sesame rice)

Step 1: Dry-roast 1 tbsp urad dal (split black gram, skinned) in a heavy pan over a medium-low heat for 3 minutes, stirring, until golden and fragrant. Add 3 dried red chillies for the last minute until they darken slightly, then tip onto a plate.

Step 2: Roast 4 tbsp black sesame seeds in the same pan over a low heat for about 2 minutes, stirring, until the seeds start to crackle and jump. Take off the heat at once and add to the plate.

Step 3: Cool everything for 5 minutes, then pound or pulse to a coarse powder with ¾ tsp salt.

Step 4: Heat 2 tbsp sesame oil (gingelly) in a wide pan over a medium heat. Add ½ tsp black mustard seeds and let it crackle, then 1 tsp urad dal (split black gram, skinned) and 10 curry leaves and stir until the dal is golden, about 40 seconds.

Step 5: Turn the heat to low, add 1 ⅓ lb cooked white rice (ponni or sona masoori) and sprinkle over the powder. Fold gently with a flat spatula for 2–3 minutes until every grain is coated and speckled grey-black. Taste and add salt if needed.

Step 6: If packing for lunch, spread on a plate to cool within an hour, keep in the fridge if made the night before, and pack with an ice pack.