Enchiladas rojas

Step 1: Heat a dry frying pan over a medium heat. Toast 6 dried guajillo chillies and 1 dried ancho chilli for 10–15 seconds per side, pressing with a spatula, until they smell fragrant and turn a shade darker. Do not let them blacken.

Step 2: Put the chillies in a bowl with 1 ¾ cups hot water and soak for 15 minutes, until soft.

Step 3: Meanwhile char 2 tomatoes, 2 garlic cloves and ¼ white onion in the same pan for 8 minutes, turning, until blistered in spots.

Step 4: Blend the chillies with their soaking water, the charred vegetables, ½ tsp dried Mexican oregano, ¼ tsp ground cumin and 1 tsp salt until completely smooth, about 1 minute. Push through a sieve for a silky sauce.

Step 5: Heat 1 tbsp of 1 tbsp sunflower oil in a saucepan over a medium heat, pour in the sauce (it will splutter) and simmer for 8 minutes, until it coats a spoon thickly. Keep warm over a low heat.

Step 6: Heat the remaining 3 tbsp sunflower oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Slide in 12 corn tortillas one at a time for 5 seconds per side, just until soft and pliable, and drain on paper.

Step 7: Dip each tortilla in the warm sauce, lay it on a plate, add a line of 6 ½ oz queso fresco or vegetarian feta and ⅜ white onion and roll it up. Arrange 3 per plate, seam down.

Step 8: Spoon over more sauce, then top with ½ cup Mexican crema or soured cream, the remaining 2 ¼ oz queso fresco or vegetarian feta and ⅜ white onion, 2 handfuls shredded lettuce and 4 radishes. Serve at once.