Escabeche oriental

Step 1: Char the 1 garlic head and ½ white onion on a dry heavy pan or comal over a medium-high heat, turning, until blackened in patches and fragrant, 8–10 minutes.

Step 2: Put the 4 chicken legs (thigh and drumstick) in a large pot with 8 ¼ cups water, the charred garlic and onion, 3 bay leaves, 6 allspice berries, 1 tsp black peppercorns, 3 cloves, 1 ⅛ in cinnamon stick, 1 tsp dried Yucatecan or Mexican oregano and 2 tsp salt. Bring just to a boil over a medium-high heat and skim off the grey foam.

Step 3: Turn the heat to low and simmer gently, with only a few lazy bubbles, until the chicken is just cooked and the juices run clear, 25 minutes.

Step 4: Meanwhile, mix 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper, ½ tsp ground allspice, ¼ tsp ground cloves, 3 garlic cloves, 1 tbsp mild white or cider vinegar and ½ tsp salt into a thick dark paste.

Step 5: Lift the chicken out, pat it dry and rub it all over with the recado. Strain the broth into a clean pan, squeezing the soft garlic through the sieve, and stir in ¼ cup mild white or cider vinegar. Taste for salt.

Step 6: Grill the chicken over hot charcoal or in a ridged grill pan over a high heat, turning, until the skin is charred in spots and crisp and the meat reads 167°F at the bone, 8–10 minutes.

Step 7: Blister 2 red onions and 4 xcatic chillies on the grill or a dry hot pan, turning once, until soft and blackened at the edges, 6–8 minutes.

Step 8: Add the onions and chillies to the broth and simmer over a medium heat until the onions turn pink and silky but keep a bite, 3 minutes.

Step 9: Put a chicken leg in each deep bowl, ladle over the hot broth with plenty of onion and a chilli, and serve with 12 warm corn tortillas. Leftovers keep 3 days in the fridge; bring to a full boil before serving.