Esgarraet

Step 1: Taste a flake of the soaked 9 oz salt cod: it should be pleasantly seasoned, not harsh. If still very salty, soak another 6 hours. Keep it in the fridge throughout.

Step 2: Heat the oven to 400°F (350°F fan). Rub 4 large red peppers with a little of the 2 tsp extra virgin olive oil and roast on a tray for 40 to 50 minutes, turning twice, until the skins are blistered and blackened in places and the peppers collapse.

Step 3: Put the peppers in a bowl, cover with a plate and leave to steam for 15 minutes. Peel off the skins and pull out the seeds with your fingers, saving any juice in the bowl. Tear the flesh into 1 cm strips.

Step 4: Meanwhile put the cod in a pan of cold water and heat it slowly until just below a simmer, with small bubbles at the edge. Hold it there for 5 minutes, until the flesh turns opaque and flakes apart. Drain, cool slightly and shred into fine threads, removing skin and bones.

Step 5: Layer the pepper strips and cod in a shallow dish, scattering 3 clove garlic between the layers. Strain the pepper juices over, then pour over the rest of the ½ cup extra virgin olive oil. Taste and add 1 pinch salt only if needed.

Step 6: Cover and leave in the fridge for at least 2 hours, ideally overnight. Bring back to room temperature for 30 minutes and scatter with olives, if using, before serving with bread. Keeps 3 days refrigerated.