Esparregado

Step 1: Boil 1 ⅓ lb spinach or turnip greens in a large pan of salted water: 2 minutes for spinach, 5–6 for turnip greens, until the leaves are soft and the stalks tender. Save a mugful of the water, then drain.

Step 2: Leave the greens to cool for a few minutes, then squeeze them in your hands, a fistful at a time, until no more water drips out.

Step 3: Chop the greens very finely on a board, or pulse briefly in a food processor; you want a rough purée, not a smooth soup.

Step 4: Warm 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil in a pan over a low heat and add 3 cloves garlic. Cook gently for 1–2 minutes until it smells sweet and is just turning pale gold; brown garlic tastes bitter.

Step 5: Stir in 1 tbsp plain flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring, until it smells toasty but has not coloured.

Step 6: Add the greens and stir well, then pour in ¾ cup cooking water from the greens a little at a time, stirring, until the purée is creamy and holds a soft shape on the spoon. Simmer for 3 minutes.

Step 7: Season with ¾ tsp salt and 1 pinch ground nutmeg if using, then stir in 1 tbsp white wine vinegar off the heat. Taste: it should be gently sharp, not sour. Serve warm.