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Fukagawa-meshi (Tokyo clam and miso rice)

深川めし: short-necked clams simmered with leek in miso broth and poured over hot rice

Clam diggers on the shallow shores of Fukagawa, in what is now Koto ward in eastern Tokyo, used to make a fast meal by simmering fresh asari clams with leek in miso soup and tipping it over rice. The bay has long since been built over, but small restaurants near Monzen-Nakacho and Kiyosumi-Shirakawa still serve it in bowls or lacquered boxes, and it is a well-known station lunch box. Some cooks steam the clams into the rice instead; this is the older poured-over style. It is savoury, briny and very quick. Chef's tip: steam the clams open first and take them out of the pot, then return them only for the last 30 seconds, so they stay plump instead of shrinking into rubbery nubs.
Total time
25 min
Difficulty
easy
Serves
2
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Ingredients

Serves2

For the clams

For the miso broth

To serve

Method

0/8 done
  1. Step 1: Scrub the 1 ⅓ lb small clams in their shells (asari or palourde) under cold running water. Tap any open ones sharply on the counter; throw away any that do not close, and any with cracked shells.

  2. Step 2: Put the clams in a wide pan with the 2 tbsp sake and 1 ¼ cups water, cover and cook over a high heat for 3 to 4 minutes, shaking the pan, until the shells open. For an alcohol-free version use all water.

    4 min
  3. Step 3: Lift out the clams with a slotted spoon. Discard any that stay shut. Pull the meat from most of the shells (keep a few in their shells for the top) and set aside.

  4. Step 4: Strain the cooking liquid through a sieve lined with kitchen paper into a clean pan, to catch any grit. You should have about 300 ml; top up with water if needed.

  5. Step 5: Add the 1 Japanese leek (naganegi) or 4 spring onions, 1 thin fried tofu (aburaage) (if using) and 1 tsp fresh ginger to the liquid. Simmer over a medium heat for 4 minutes, until the leek is soft.

    4 min
  6. Step 6: Turn the heat to low. Dissolve the 2 ½ tbsp white or mixed miso in a ladle of the hot liquid, stir it back into the pan and add the 1 tsp mirin. Do not let it boil from now on, or the miso loses its aroma.

    1 min
  7. Step 7: Return all the clams to the pan for 30 seconds, just to warm them. Common mistake: simmering the clam meat for minutes in the miso. It shrinks and turns chewy almost at once.

    1 min
  8. Step 8: Divide the 14 oz hot cooked Japanese rice between two deep bowls. Ladle the clams, leek and plenty of broth over the top. Scatter with 1 spring onion or mitsuba and 1 pinch shichimi pepper and eat at once.

Nutrition per serving

Calories
430 kcal
Protein
22 g
Carbs
70 g
Fat
6 g
Fibre
3 g

Nutrition values are estimates.

K
Recipe by

KrazyBadal

All recipes by this chef →

Good to know

How long does fukagawa-meshi (Tokyo clam and miso rice) take?
About 25 minutes in total: 10 minutes to prepare and 15 minutes to cook.
How many people does it serve?
2 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
What can I use instead of japanese leek (naganegi) or 4 spring onions?
1 onion per leek.
What can I use instead of fresh ginger?
¼ tsp ground ginger per tbsp fresh (add it with the spices).

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