Gachas dulces

Step 1: Warm 6 tbsp olive oil in a wide pan over a medium heat and fry 3 ½ oz day-old white bread, stirring, until golden and crunchy all over, about 4 minutes. Lift out with a slotted spoon onto kitchen paper.

Step 2: Lower the heat, add 1 tsp aniseed and 1 strip lemon peel to the oil and fry for 30 seconds, until fragrant. Remove the peel.

Step 3: Stir in 2 ⅛ oz plain flour and cook, stirring, for 3–4 minutes, until it smells toasty and turns the colour of pale sand.

Step 4: Pour in 3 ¼ cups whole milk a ladle at a time, whisking well after each. A common mistake is pouring it all at once, which leaves lumps you can't whisk out.

Step 5: Add 3 ⅛ oz caster sugar and 1 pinch salt and simmer gently, stirring often, for 10 minutes, until thick and creamy like loose custard and the floury taste has gone.

Step 6: Pour into a shallow dish or bowls, scatter the fried bread on top and dust with 1 tsp ground cinnamon. Serve warm, sharing from the middle in the old way.