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Gondhoraj ghol
গন্ধরাজ ঘোল: Kolkata's churned yogurt drink, perfumed with the zest of the big green gondhoraj lime
In Kolkata the gondhoraj lime arrives with the monsoon heat, a knobbly green fruit whose peel smells of flowers and pine more than of sour citrus. Bengali households use it to lift dal and fish, but in the sticky months from Boishakh into Srabon it goes into ghol: dahi churned with cold water until frothy, sweetened lightly and scented with the zest, a squeeze of juice and a torn leaf. Cafés along Gariahat and old sweet shops serve it in clay bhaar cups after lunch, and it is just as good mid-afternoon with a plate of muri. It drinks thin, cool and silky, with a soft tang and a perfume that hits the nose before the first sip. The usual mistake is grating too deep or leaving the zest to sit for an hour: the white pith and the oils turn bitter. Take only the green outer layer, add it just before serving, and stop when the ghol smells floral rather than sharp. It is ready when the top is covered in fine foam and a spoon comes out lightly coated. Chef's tip: for the salted version, swap the sugar for black salt and a pinch of roasted cumin, as many Kolkata homes do on the hottest days.
- Total time
- 10 min
- Difficulty
- easy
- Serves
- 4
Ingredients
For the ghol
- 14 oz plain dahi (yogurt)full-fat, set the day before
- 1 ¾ cups chilled water
- 3 tbsp sugaror to taste
- 1 pinch salt
- 1 gondhoraj limeor 2 kaffir (makrut) limes for zest plus 1 ordinary lime for juice
To serve
- 8 ice cubes (optional)
- 4 thin strips of lime zest (optional)
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Method
0/5 doneStep 1: Put 14 oz plain dahi (yogurt), 3 tbsp sugar and 1 pinch salt in a wide jug or bowl. Churn with a wooden ghutni, whisk or stick blender for about 1 minute until completely smooth with no lumps.
2 minStep 2: Pour in the 1 ¾ cups chilled water a little at a time while churning, for 2 minutes, until the ghol is thin, pale and topped with a layer of fine foam.
2 minStep 3: Wash and dry the 1 gondhoraj lime. Grate only the green skin over the jug, stopping as soon as you see white pith. Squeeze in 1–2 tsp of its juice, tasting as you go; it should be gently tangy, not sour.
2 minStep 4: Bruise the 2 gondhoraj or kaffir lime leaf between your fingers and drop it in. Rest for 5 minutes in the fridge, no longer, so the perfume opens without turning bitter.
5 minStep 5: Remove the leaf, churn once more for a few seconds to raise the foam, and pour over 8 ice cubes in chilled glasses or clay cups. Top with 4 thin strips of lime zest and serve at once.
1 min
Nutrition per serving
- Calories
- 95 kcal
- Protein
- 4 g
- Carbs
- 13 g
- Fat
- 3 g
- Fibre
- 0 g
Nutrition values are estimates.
KrazyBadal
Good to know
- How long does gondhoraj ghol take?
- About 10 minutes in total.
- How many people does it serve?
- 4 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
- Is it vegetarian?
- Yes. It has no meat or fish.
- Is it gluten free?
- Yes, as written. Check the labels on stock, sauces and spice mixes, which sometimes contain gluten.
- What can I use instead of sugar?
- Caster sugar, same amount.
- What can I use instead of gondhoraj lime?
- Lemon, same amount.
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