Grießnockerlsuppe

Step 1: Char the cut sides of the 1 onion, halved, unpeeled in a dry pan for 5 minutes. Put the 1 ⅓ lb beef shin, 1 ⅛ lb beef bones and 10 ½ cups cold water in a large pot, bring slowly to a simmer and skim off the foam.

Step 2: Add the onion, 1 carrot, 3 ½ oz celeriac, 1 leek, green part, 6 black peppercorns and 1 bay leaf and simmer very gently, lid ajar, for 2–2½ hours, until the beef is tender. Strain through a fine sieve and season with the 1 ½ tsp salt. Common mistake: boiling hard, which makes the broth cloudy and greasy.

Step 3: For the dumplings, beat the 1 ¾ oz soft butter until creamy, beat in the 1 egg, at room temperature, then stir in the 3 ½ oz fine wheat semolina, ¼ tsp salt and 1 pinch grated nutmeg. Rest the mix for 15 minutes.

Step 4: Bring a pan of salted water to the boil. Shape oval dumplings between two wet teaspoons and slide them in. Cover, simmer for 3 minutes, then take off the heat and leave covered for 15 minutes; they swell to double size and are done when the centre is fluffy, not chalky.

Step 5: Lift the dumplings into warm bowls, pour over the hot broth and scatter with 2 tbsp chopped chives. Slice the beef shin for another meal or add a few pieces to the bowls.