Guilin rice noodles

Step 1: Blanch 1 ⅛ lb beef shin or brisket in boiling water for 3 minutes, then drain and rinse. Use a separate board for the raw beef.

Step 2: Heat 1 tbsp neutral oil and ⅔ oz rock sugar in a heavy pan over a low heat for 3–4 minutes, stirring, until the sugar melts and turns pale amber. Add ⅔ oz fresh ginger, 3 cloves garlic, 3 star anise, 1 cinnamon stick or cassia bark, 1 tsp fennel seeds, 1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns and 3 bay leaves and stir for 30 seconds.

Step 3: Add 2 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine, 3 tbsp light soy sauce, 1 tbsp dark soy sauce, ½ tsp salt and 1.2 litres water, then the beef. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer gently for 50 minutes, until the beef is tender enough for a skewer to pass through with little resistance. Leave it to cool in the liquid; this spiced liquid is the lu shui that dresses the noodles.

Step 4: Meanwhile, soak 14 oz dried round rice noodles (mifen) in warm water for 30 minutes, or as the packet directs, until pliable. Then cook them in a large pan of boiling water for 3–5 minutes, until soft and slippery but not falling apart; overcooking them is the usual mistake. Drain and rinse with hot water.

Step 5: Lift out the beef and slice it as thinly as you can across the grain. Strain the braising liquid.

Step 6: Divide the noodles among 4 bowls and spoon 3–4 tablespoons of the hot braising liquid over each. It is a dressing, not a soup, so don't drown them.

Step 7: Top with the beef slices, 2 ⅞ oz roasted peanuts, 3 ½ oz pickled long beans or pickled mustard greens, 2 ⅞ oz sour bamboo shoots or plain bamboo shoots, 4 tsp chilli sauce or chopped fresh chilli, 2 spring onions and 1 handful coriander. Toss everything together before eating; add a ladle of hot 2 cups hot beef or chicken stock to the last few mouthfuls if you like.