Hakka lei cha

Step 1: Toast 3 tbsp white sesame seeds in a dry pan over a medium-low heat for 3 minutes, until golden and starting to pop. Tip out, then toast 1 ¾ oz raw peanuts in the same pan for 6–8 minutes until browned in spots.

Step 2: Pound or blend the sesame, peanuts, ⅓ oz green tea leaves, ⅔ oz Thai basil leaves, ⅓ oz mint leaves, ⅔ oz fresh coriander and ½ tsp salt with a splash of ¾ cup just-boiled water to a thick, dark green paste. A food processor works; a mortar gives a coarser, more traditional texture.

Step 3: Stir in the rest of 2 ½ cups just-boiled water a ladle at a time until it looks like a thin, frothy green soup. Common mistake: using boiling water straight onto the herbs at the start, which turns them brown and bitter; the small first splash is enough.

Step 4: Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a wok over a high heat. Stir-fry each topping separately with a pinch of ½ tsp salt: 5 ½ oz green beans for 3 minutes until bright, 7 oz choi sum or cabbage for 2 minutes until wilted, 7 oz firm tofu for 4 minutes until golden at the edges, and 1 ⅜ oz preserved radish (chai poh) for 1 minute until fragrant.

Step 5: Put the warm 1 ⅓ lb cooked rice (brown or white) in bowls and arrange the toppings in small heaps on top. Scatter with 3 tbsp roasted peanuts, pour the tea soup over at the table, mix and eat.