Hokey pokey ice cream

Step 1: Line a 20 cm square tin with greased baking paper. Have 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda measured out and a whisk ready beside the stove.

Step 2: Put 5 ½ oz caster sugar and 2 ⅛ oz golden syrup in a deep saucepan (the toffee foams to several times its volume). Heat over a low heat, swirling the pan without stirring, until the sugar dissolves.

Step 3: Turn the heat to medium and let it bubble, swirling now and then, for 3–4 minutes, until it turns a deep amber, like maple syrup, and smells of caramel (300°F on a thermometer). Watch closely: it burns quickly.

Step 4: Take off the heat, tip in the bicarb and whisk for 5 seconds only. It will foam up dramatically. Pour at once into the tin and don't spread it, or you'll knock out the bubbles. Leave for 1 hour to set hard.

Step 5: Whip 2 ½ cups double cream, 14 oz sweetened condensed milk, 2 tsp vanilla extract and 1 pinch salt with an electric whisk until thick and holding soft peaks, 3–4 minutes.

Step 6: Break the hokey pokey into small pieces, about 1 cm, and fold two-thirds through the cream. A common mistake is adding it to the base too early or using it all at once: honeycomb draws in moisture and melts into sticky streaks, so fold it in just before freezing and keep the rest for the top.

Step 7: Spread into a 1.5-litre freezer container, scatter with the remaining pieces, cover and freeze for at least 6 hours, until firm.

Step 8: Soften in the fridge for 10 minutes before scooping. Serve in cones or bowls. It keeps for a month in the freezer.