Huevos rancheros

Step 1: Heat a dry heavy frying pan over a high heat. Roast 1 ⅛ lb ripe tomatoes, 2 serrano chillies, ¼ white onion and 1 clove garlic for 8 minutes, turning, until the skins are blistered and blackened in spots and the tomatoes are soft. Peel the garlic and pull the stems off the chillies.

Step 2: Pulse everything in a blender with ¾ tsp salt to a chunky sauce; ranchera should have some texture, not be a purée.

Step 3: Heat 1 tbsp of 1 tbsp vegetable oil in a small pan over a medium-high heat, pour in the salsa and simmer for 4 minutes until slightly thickened. Keep warm. At the same time warm 9 oz refried beans in another small pan with a splash of water.

Step 4: Heat the rest of 3 tbsp vegetable oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Fry each of 4 corn tortillas for 5–10 seconds a side, until soft with crisp edges, and lay them on plates.

Step 5: In the same oil over a medium heat, fry 4 eggs for 2–3 minutes, spooning hot oil over the whites, until they are set with lacy edges and the yolks still runny. Season with the rest of ¼ tsp salt.

Step 6: Put an egg on each tortilla and spoon the salsa ranchera round and over the whites, leaving the yolk showing. Add beans on the side, then crumble over 1 ¾ oz queso fresco and scatter with ⅓ oz fresh coriander and 1 avocado if using.