Hünkar beğendi

Step 1: Pat 1 ½ lb boneless lamb shoulder dry. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil and ⅔ oz butter in a heavy casserole over a medium-high heat and brown the lamb in two batches, 5 minutes each, until well coloured on all sides. Lift out.

Step 2: Lower the heat to medium. Add 2 onions, 3 cloves garlic and 2 long green peppers and cook for 8 minutes until soft and golden, scraping up the browned bits.

Step 3: Stir in 1 tbsp tomato paste for 1 minute, then add 3 tomatoes, 1 tsp dried thyme, 1 tsp salt, ½ tsp black pepper, the lamb and 2 cups hot water. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook gently for 1½ hours, until the lamb is tender enough to cut with a spoon. Uncover for the last 15 minutes so the sauce thickens.

Step 4: While the lamb cooks, prick 4 large aubergines a few times and char them directly on a gas flame or under a very hot grill for 15–20 minutes, turning, until black all over and completely soft.

Step 5: When cool enough to handle, split the aubergines, scoop out the flesh and drop it into a bowl of water with 1 tbsp lemon juice to stop it going grey. After 5 minutes, squeeze the flesh firmly in your hands and chop it finely. A common mistake is leaving it wet; watery aubergine makes a loose, grey purée.

Step 6: Melt 1 ⅜ oz butter in a pan over a medium-low heat, stir in 2 tbsp plain flour and cook for 2 minutes without browning. Whisk in 1 ½ cups whole milk a little at a time and simmer for 3–4 minutes until smooth and thick.

Step 7: Beat in the chopped aubergine and cook for 5 minutes, stirring hard, until creamy. Stir in 2 ⅞ oz kaşar cheese or mild Cheddar, 1 pinch grated nutmeg and ½ tsp salt until melted. It should be thick enough to hold a hollow.

Step 8: Spread the beğendi on warm plates, make a well in the middle and spoon the lamb and its sauce into it. Scatter with 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley and serve hot.