Indori shikanji

Step 1: Bring 4 ¼ cups whole milk to the boil in a heavy, wide pan on medium heat, then lower to a steady simmer.

Step 2: Simmer for 25–30 minutes, stirring every couple of minutes and scraping the sides back in, until reduced to roughly 600 ml and lightly creamy, coating the back of a spoon. Don't let it catch: a scorched bottom gives the whole drink a burnt taste.

Step 3: Stir in 2 ½ oz sugar, ¼ tsp saffron threads with its milk, ½ tsp ground cardamom and 1 pinch ground nutmeg and simmer for 2 more minutes until the sugar dissolves and the milk turns pale gold.

Step 4: Pour into a jug, cool to room temperature, then chill for at least 2 hours until fridge-cold.

Step 5: Whisk 3 ½ oz thick Greek-style yogurt in a bowl until smooth, then whisk in a ladle of the cold milk. Pour this back into the jug with half the 1 ⅜ oz mixed almonds, pistachios and cashews and whisk hard for a minute (or blend for 10 seconds) until thick and frothy.

Step 6: Pour into glasses over 6 ice cubes if you like, and top with the rest of the 1 ⅜ oz mixed almonds, pistachios and cashews and 1 tbsp charoli (chironji) seeds. It keeps for a day in the fridge; whisk before serving.