Issho mochi (first-birthday rice cake)

Step 1: In a large heatproof bowl, mix 2 ¼ lb glutinous rice flour and 2 ⅛ oz caster sugar, then stir in 3 ¾ cups water a little at a time until you have a smooth, thick batter with no dry lumps, like soft cake batter. Add a splash more water if it feels stiff.

Step 2: Line a steamer basket with a damp cloth or baking paper, pour in the batter and level it. Steam over rapidly boiling water for 35–40 minutes, stirring the dough firmly with a wet spatula every 10 minutes so it cooks evenly. It is done when it has turned from chalky white to glossy and slightly translucent all the way through.

Step 3: Dust a large tray and your hands well with 2 ⅛ oz potato starch. Turn the hot mochi out, knead it with wet, starch-dusted hands for a minute until smooth and elastic, then shape it into one large round cushion about 4 cm thick. Work quickly: the most common mistake is letting it cool before shaping, which leaves cracks and a lumpy surface.

Step 4: Dust the top with more starch and leave to cool for at least 2 hours, until firm enough to hold its shape when lifted. Wrap it in clean cling film and then in a cloth for the baby to carry.

Step 5: After the ceremony, cut the mochi into small squares. Grill or pan-toast them over a medium heat until puffed and golden and serve them to adults and older children, plain or dipped in a little sugar. For small children, cut tiny, thin pieces and sit with them while they eat.

Step 6: Wrap leftover pieces tightly and freeze for up to a month; mochi goes hard in the fridge. Toast from frozen until soft and puffed.