Sesame balls (jin deui)

Step 1: Stir 2 ½ oz light brown sugar into ¾ cup just-boiled water until dissolved. Pour it gradually into 9 oz glutinous rice flour, stirring with chopsticks, then add 1 tbsp neutral oil.

Step 2: Once cool enough to handle, knead for 3–4 minutes into a smooth, soft dough like play dough. Add a teaspoon more water if it cracks, or flour if it sticks.

Step 3: Roll 8 ½ oz sweetened red bean paste or lotus seed paste into 16 small balls of about 15 g. Divide the dough into 16 pieces and keep it covered.

Step 4: Flatten one piece of dough into a 7 cm cup, set a ball of paste inside, close the dough over it and roll between your palms until smooth and sealed, with no air pockets. Repeat.

Step 5: Put 2 ⅞ oz white sesame seeds on a plate. Dip each ball quickly in 3 tbsp cold water, then roll it in the seeds and press them on firmly with your palms so they stick in a full coat.

Step 6: Heat 1 litre neutral oil in a wok or deep pan to 300°F over a medium heat; a chopstick dipped in should give off small, steady bubbles.

Step 7: Lower in 5 or 6 balls and fry for 3–4 minutes, stirring gently, until they float. A common mistake is crowding the pan; give them room to roll.

Step 8: As they float, press each ball gently against the side of the pan with a slotted spoon, letting it roll back, again and again. Fry for another 4–5 minutes, until they swell noticeably and feel light.

Step 9: Raise the heat to medium-high (about 350°F) for the last 1–2 minutes, until evenly deep golden. Lift out and drain on kitchen paper.

Step 10: Repeat with the remaining balls, letting the oil drop back to 300°F between batches. Serve warm, within about 30 minutes, while the shell is crisp.