Lao bamboo shoot soup

Step 1: If using fresh bamboo shoots, boil them in a pan of unsalted water over a high heat for 15 minutes, drain, then repeat with fresh water for 10 minutes more. Canned strips only need a rinse. This removes the bitterness and makes fresh shoots safe to eat.

Step 2: Tear 40 fresh or frozen yanang leaves into a large bowl with 2 cups cold water and squeeze and scrunch the leaves for 3–4 minutes, until the water turns dark green and the leaves feel limp. Strain through a sieve, pressing hard, and discard the leaves.

Step 3: Pound the drained 2 tbsp glutinous (sticky) rice in a mortar to a rough, wet paste, then stir it into the yanang juice. It will thicken the soup gently as it cooks.

Step 4: Put 2 lemongrass stalks, 3 shallots, 3 garlic cloves and 3 fresh red bird's eye chillies in a large pot with 2 cups water and bring to the boil over a high heat. Simmer for 5 minutes, until the kitchen smells of lemongrass.

Step 5: Add the blanched 14 oz bamboo shoot strips and 9 oz pumpkin and simmer over a medium heat for 8–10 minutes, until the pumpkin is just tender when pierced with a knife.

Step 6: Pour in the yanang and rice mixture, stirring all the time, and bring back to a gentle simmer. Keep stirring the bottom for the first few minutes so the rice paste doesn't catch.

Step 7: Add 7 oz oyster or straw mushrooms and 1 angled loofah or courgette and simmer gently for 5 minutes, until the loofah turns translucent and the broth has thickened slightly, like thin cream.

Step 8: Season with 1 tsp salt and 1 tbsp tamari, taste, and add more salt if needed. The soup should taste green, savoury and a little peppery from the chillies.

Step 9: Take off the heat and stir in 1 handful lemon basil or dill and 1 small handful rice paddy herb. Ladle into bowls straight away and serve with sticky rice; the herbs dull if the soup keeps boiling.