Kalakand

Step 1: Pour 4 ¼ cups full-fat milk into a wide, heavy kadhai and bring to the boil over a medium-high heat. Lower to a steady simmer and reduce for 30–35 minutes, stirring and scraping the sides every few minutes, until it is about one-third of its volume and thick like custard.

Step 2: Meanwhile, bring 4 ¼ cups full-fat milk to the boil in another pan, turn off the heat and wait 1 minute. Add 2 tbsp lemon juice a little at a time, stirring gently, just until the milk splits into soft curds and pale greenish whey.

Step 3: Pour the curds into a muslin-lined sieve, rinse with cold water to wash off the lemon, and squeeze lightly. Keep the chhena moist and crumbly, not pressed dry. Common mistake: boiling the milk hard after adding acid; the curds tighten and the kalakand turns rubbery.

Step 4: Add the chhena to the reduced milk and stir over a medium-low heat for 5 minutes. Add 4 oz sugar; the mixture loosens. Keep stirring for 8–10 minutes until it thickens again, comes together and just starts to leave the sides of the pan but still looks moist.

Step 5: Stir in ½ tsp ground green cardamom. Grease an 18 cm tray with 1 tsp ghee, spread the mixture about 2.5 cm thick and level it gently without pressing hard.

Step 6: Scatter over 2 tbsp pistachios and press them in lightly. Leave to set at room temperature for 3 hours, then cut into 16 squares. Keep in the fridge for up to 4 days and bring to room temperature to serve.