Kanda lasun masala

Step 1: Heat 4 tbsp of the 4 tbsp groundnut oil in a kadai over a medium heat and fry 3 onions, stirring often, for 20–25 minutes, until deep brown, crisp and completely dry. Lift them out with a slotted spoon onto paper.

Step 2: Fry 40 garlic cloves in the same oil over a medium-low heat for 5–6 minutes until golden and crisp at the edges, then drain on paper.

Step 3: Common mistake: grinding onions that are still soft. Spread the onion and garlic on paper and leave them to dry for an hour if needed; they should crumble.

Step 4: In a clean, dry pan, roast 2 ⅛ oz dry coconut (kopra) over a low heat for 4–5 minutes, stirring, until evenly dark brown. Tip onto a plate.

Step 5: Heat the remaining 1 tbsp groundnut oil and roast 2 tbsp coriander seeds, 1 tbsp cumin seeds, 1 tbsp white sesame seeds, 1 tsp black peppercorns, 8 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 black cardamom pod, 1 star anise, 2 Indian bay leaves (tamalpatra) and 1 tbsp stone flower (dagad phool) over a low heat for 3–4 minutes until fragrant and a shade darker.

Step 6: Let everything cool completely. Grind the whole spices and coconut to a fine powder first, then add the onion, garlic, 1 ¾ oz Kashmiri chilli powder, ⅞ oz hot red chilli powder, 1 tsp ground turmeric and 2 tsp salt and grind to a dark, slightly oily powder.

Step 7: Pack into a clean, dry, airtight jar and press it down. It keeps for 2 weeks at room temperature or 3 months in the fridge; always use a dry spoon.