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Khari biscuits

Salted puff pastry sticks

ખારી: salted, many-layered puff pastry sticks from Gujarati and Mumbai bakeries

Chai in Mumbai's Irani cafés and Ahmedabad's corner bakeries comes with a glass jar of khari: long, shattering sticks of puff pastry, salty rather than sweet, that flake all over your lap. People dip them in sweet masala chai, which soaks into the layers in seconds, so the trick is a quick dunk. Bakeries usually laminate with margarine or vanaspati; butter gives a richer, cleaner taste, and this eggless home version uses a block of cold butter folded into a plain dough, with a scatter of cumin or crushed kasuri methi on some. The biggest mistake is letting the butter go soft between folds: it smears into the dough and the sticks bake up hard and bready instead of rising into dozens of leaves. Chef's tip: once the sticks have puffed and coloured, lower the oven and leave them in until the centres are dry; under-dried khari go soft in the jar within a day.
Total time
185 min
Difficulty
hard
Serves
12
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Ingredients

Serves12

For the dough

  • 9 oz plain flourplus extra for rolling
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • 1 tsp lemon juice
  • ½ cup ice-cold water
  • ⅞ oz buttermelted

For the layers

  • 6 ½ oz unsalted buttercold, or half butter and half vegetable shortening

To finish

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Method

0/11 done
  1. Step 1: Mix 9 oz plain flour, 1 tsp salt and 1 tsp sugar in a bowl. Add 1 tsp lemon juice, ⅞ oz butter and most of ½ cup ice-cold water and bring it together into a soft but not sticky dough, adding the rest of the water a spoonful at a time.

    5 min
  2. Step 2: Knead for 2–3 minutes until smooth, flatten into a square, wrap and chill for 30 minutes.

    30 min
  3. Step 3: Put 6 ½ oz unsalted butter between two sheets of baking paper and bash and roll it into a 12 cm square about 1 cm thick. Chill until firm but still bendable, about 10 minutes.

    10 min
  4. Step 4: Roll the dough into a 24 cm square. Set the butter on it like a diamond and fold the four corners of dough over it, pinching the seams to seal it in.

  5. Step 5: Roll into a 15 × 45 cm strip, keeping the edges straight, and fold it in three like a letter. Turn it 90 degrees, wrap and chill for 20 minutes. If butter breaks through, dust the spot with flour and carry on.

    20 min
  6. Step 6: Repeat the roll, fold and 20-minute chill three more times, so the dough has four folds in all. Keep the dough cold throughout: if it feels greasy or soft, put it back in the fridge before rolling.

    60 min
  7. Step 7: Heat the oven to 400°F (350°F fan) and line two trays with baking paper. Roll the dough into a rectangle about 4 mm thick and trim the edges with a sharp knife so the layers can rise.

  8. Step 8: Cut into sticks about 2 × 10 cm and lay them on the trays with space between. Brush the tops lightly with 2 tbsp milk, keeping it off the cut sides, and scatter 1 tsp cumin seeds, 1 tbsp kasuri methi (dried fenugreek leaves) or ½ tsp flaky salt over some if you like. Chill the trays for 10 minutes.

    10 min
  9. Step 9: Bake for 15–18 minutes, until the sticks have puffed into clear layers and are pale golden.

    17 min
  10. Step 10: Turn the oven down to 300°F (275°F fan) and bake for another 15–18 minutes, until deep golden and crisp right through. Break one: the centre should look dry and flaky, not doughy.

    17 min
  11. Step 11: Cool completely on a rack, then store in an airtight tin for up to two weeks.

Nutrition per serving

Calories
210 kcal
Protein
3 g
Carbs
19 g
Fat
14 g
Fibre
1 g

Nutrition values are estimates.

K
Recipe by

KrazyBadal

All recipes by this chef →

Good to know

How long does khari biscuits take?
About 185 minutes in total: 150 minutes to prepare and 35 minutes to cook.
How many people does it serve?
12 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
Is it vegetarian?
Yes. It has no meat or fish.
Can I make it ahead?
Yes. It keeps well, so you can cook it earlier in the day or the day before and reheat it.
What can I use instead of plain flour?
Self-raising flour, same amount (then leave out the baking powder).
What can I use instead of sugar?
Caster sugar, same amount.

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Perfect for:Tea-time