Kurthi dal

Step 1: Drain 7 oz horse gram (kurthi). Put it in a pressure cooker with 3 ¾ cups water, ½ tsp ground turmeric and 1 ¼ tsp salt and cook for 6–7 whistles over a medium heat (about 25 minutes), or simmer in a covered pot for 50–60 minutes, until each grain is soft enough to crush between your fingers. Common mistake: skipping the overnight soak; horse gram is very hard and will stay chalky.

Step 2: Add 1 tomato and simmer the dal for 10 minutes, mashing some of the grains against the side of the pot, until creamy but still with whole grains. Add hot water if it is thicker than you like.

Step 3: For the tempering, heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in a small pan over a high heat until it smokes lightly, then turn down to medium. Add 1 tsp cumin seeds and 2 dried red chillies and let them crackle, then 6 cloves garlic and fry until golden. Add 1 onion and fry 4–5 minutes until browned at the edges.

Step 4: Pour the hot tempering into the dal; it should sizzle loudly. Stir, simmer 2 minutes, scatter with 2 tbsp coriander leaves and serve with rice.