Kyar zan hinga

Step 1: Put 1 ⅓ lb bone-in chicken thighs and 7 ½ cups water in a large pot and bring slowly to the boil. Skim off the grey foam, then simmer gently, partly covered, for 25 minutes, until the meat pulls easily from the bone and reaches 165°F.

Step 2: Meanwhile, soak 5 ½ oz glass noodles (mung bean vermicelli) in warm water for 10 minutes, ⅓ oz dried wood-ear mushrooms in hot water for 15 minutes and ⅔ oz dried lily buds in warm water for 15 minutes, in three separate bowls.

Step 3: Drain the wood ear, trim off any hard bits and slice into strips. Drain the lily buds, snip off the hard tips and tie each one into a simple knot.

Step 4: Put 12 quail eggs into a small pan of boiling water and cook for 4 minutes, until fully set. Cool them in cold water and peel.

Step 5: Lift the chicken out, leave to cool a little, then shred the meat and discard the bones. Keep the broth simmering.

Step 6: Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a small frying pan over a medium heat and fry 3 shallots and 4 garlic cloves for 3–4 minutes until pale golden. Stir in ½ tsp sweet paprika for 10 seconds, then tip the lot into the broth.

Step 7: Season the broth with 3 tbsp fish sauce, 1 tsp sugar and ½ tsp ground white pepper. Add the wood ear and lily buds and simmer for 8 minutes, until the lily buds are soft but still chewy.

Step 8: Add 7 oz fish balls and simmer for 4–5 minutes, until they swell, float and are hot right through. Return the chicken and quail eggs to warm for 2 minutes. Taste; it should be savoury and peppery.

Step 9: Drain the glass noodles, cut them a few times with scissors and divide between deep bowls. Don't cook them in the pot: the hot broth softens them perfectly.

Step 10: Ladle the broth, chicken, fish balls, eggs and mushrooms over the noodles. Serve with 2 limes, 1 handful fresh coriander, 2 tbsp crispy fried garlic, 1 tsp dried chilli flakes and 2 spring onions for everyone to add as they like.