Lauki kofta

Step 1: Toss 1 ⅓ lb bottle gourd (lauki) with ¾ tsp salt, leave 5 minutes, then squeeze handful by handful very hard, saving the juice.

Step 2: Mix the squeezed lauki with 2 ½ oz gram flour (besan), 1 green chilli, 1 tsp ginger and 2 tbsp fresh coriander into a soft mixture that holds its shape. Roll into 16 walnut-sized balls with damp hands.

Step 3: Heat 2 cups oil for deep-frying in a kadhai, no more than a third of its depth, over medium heat. Test with a pinch of mixture: it should rise in 2–3 seconds with steady bubbles. Never leave the oil unattended.

Step 4: Fry the koftas in batches for 4–5 minutes, turning, until deep golden and firm. Drain on paper.

Step 5: For the gravy, heat 2 tbsp oil, add ½ tsp cumin seeds and 1 bay leaf, then 2 onions and cook 8 minutes until the raw smell goes and they turn light brown. Add 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste for 1 minute.

Step 6: Add 3 tomatoes, 1 ½ tsp Kashmiri chilli powder, 2 tsp ground coriander, ¼ tsp ground turmeric and ¾ tsp salt and cook 7–8 minutes until the oil separates.

Step 7: Pour in 1 ¼ cups reserved lauki juice or water and simmer 5 minutes. Add ½ tsp garam masala and 1 tsp kasuri methi.

Step 8: Slide in the koftas just before serving and simmer 2 minutes, so they warm through without going soggy.