Shiitake and tofu lu rou fan

Step 1: Soak 1 ⅜ oz dried shiitake mushrooms in 1 ¾ cups warm water for 30 minutes (or 15 minutes in hot water) until soft right through. Squeeze them over the bowl, cut off the stems and dice the caps into 5 mm pieces. Keep the soaking liquid, leaving any grit behind.

Step 2: Pat 14 oz extra-firm tofu dry. Heat 2 tbsp of 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a wide non-stick pan over a medium-high heat and fry the cubes for 8–10 minutes, turning now and then, until golden and firm on most sides. Lift out onto a plate.

Step 3: Add the rest of 4 tbsp vegetable oil to the pan, lower the heat to medium-low and add 6 shallots. Stir often for 8–10 minutes until they are evenly amber and smell sweet. Common mistake: rushing the shallots on a high heat; they scorch at the edges, taste bitter and give none of the deep, toasty flavour this dish depends on.

Step 4: Add 4 cloves garlic and the diced mushrooms and fry over a medium heat for 3 minutes, until the mushrooms sizzle and smell nutty.

Step 5: Pour in 3 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine and let it bubble away for 30 seconds, then add 4 tbsp light soy sauce, 1 tbsp dark soy sauce, ⅔ oz rock sugar, ½ tsp five-spice powder and ¼ tsp ground white pepper and stir until the sugar dissolves and everything is coated in a dark glaze.

Step 6: Return the tofu, add 300 ml of the mushroom soaking liquid and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook on a low heat for 30 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes.

Step 7: Uncover and simmer for 8–10 minutes more, until the sauce has reduced to a sticky, shiny gravy that coats the back of a spoon. Taste: it should be salty-sweet and a little peppery.

Step 8: Spoon the braise and some of its gravy over bowls of hot 1 ¾ lb cooked jasmine rice so the sauce seeps into the grains. Add slices of 2 ⅞ oz yellow pickled radish (takuan) and a few 10 ½ oz bok choy or choy sum on the side and eat straight away.