Maangai thokku

Step 1: Prepare the jar: wash jar and lid in hot soapy water, rinse well, then stand the jar upside down in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes (or boil jar and lid for 10 minutes and let them dry upside down). Let it cool completely; jar, lid, bowls and spoons must be bone dry, because a single drop of water is the usual reason a pickle goes mouldy.

Step 2: Wash the 2 raw green mangoes and dry it completely. Peel it if the skin is thick (thin skin can stay), then grate it on the large holes of a box grater down to the stone.

Step 3: Dry-roast 1 tsp fenugreek seeds in a small pan over a medium-low heat until reddish-brown and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Cool and grind to a powder.

Step 4: Heat ½ cup gingelly (sesame) oil in a heavy pan over a medium heat. Add 1 tsp mustard seeds; when it crackles, lower the heat and add ½ tsp gluten-free asafoetida and ½ tsp ground turmeric for a few seconds.

Step 5: Add the grated mango and 1 ½ tbsp salt and stir. Cook on a medium heat, stirring every minute or two, until the mango softens and releases its juice and then the juice cooks away, about 10 minutes.

Step 6: Add 3 tbsp red chilli powder and keep cooking on a medium-low heat, stirring constantly now, for another 10–12 minutes, until the thokku is dark red, comes away from the pan in one mass and oil seeps out around the edge.

Step 7: Turn off the heat and stir in the fenugreek powder and 1 tsp jaggery if using. Taste: it should be boldly salty, sour and hot.

Step 8: Cool completely, then pack into the dry jar and smooth the top so a film of oil covers it. Keep 2 weeks in a cool cupboard or up to 2 months in the fridge, always with a clean dry spoon. Discard if mould spots appear or it smells fermented or off.