Mamona

Step 1: Rub 2 tbsp coarse salt all over 4 lb beef short ribs, in one slab and 2 ¼ lb beef flank or skirt, in one piece. Cover and leave in the fridge for 3–4 hours. Take out 30 minutes before cooking.

Step 2: Light 6 ⅝ lb charcoal and hardwood chunks and, when the coals are covered in grey ash, push them all to one side of the barbecue. Add a couple of wood chunks. Put a tray of water under the empty side to catch drips.

Step 3: Put the short ribs on the cool side, bone side down, close the lid and adjust the vents to hold about 140–300°F inside.

Step 4: Cook for 3 hours, adding a handful of fresh charcoal every 45 minutes, until the meat has a dark, salty crust and has shrunk back from the bones.

Step 5: Add the flank on the cool side and cook both for another 60–80 minutes. The ribs are done when a skewer slides in like butter (about 199°F inside). Cook the flank to your taste; for this slow, rustic style most people take it to at least 145°F.

Step 6: Meanwhile, boil 2 ¼ lb cassava (yuca) with 1 tsp salt for 20–25 minutes, until tender and starting to split. Drain.

Step 7: Rest the meat for 15 minutes, then cut the ribs between the bones and slice the flank thickly across the grain. Serve with the cassava and ¾ cup ají picante.