Mirchi ka salan

Step 1: Wash 9 oz large mild green chillies (bhavnagri or banana chillies) and dry them completely; wet chillies spit violently in hot oil. Slit each one lengthways on one side, leaving the stalk and tip intact, and scrape out most of the seeds with a teaspoon. This keeps the heat gentle and lets the gravy seep in.

Step 2: Heat 4 tbsp sunflower or groundnut oil in a wide, heavy pan over a medium heat. Fry the chillies in a single layer for 3–4 minutes, turning, until the skins blister and show pale patches; don't let them collapse. Lift out onto a plate and keep the oil in the pan.

Step 3: In a dry frying pan over a medium-low heat, roast 1 ⅜ oz raw peanuts for 4–5 minutes, shaking, until golden and fragrant, then tip out. Roast 3 tbsp desiccated coconut for about 1 minute until light golden, tip out, then roast 2 tbsp white sesame seeds, 1 tbsp coriander seeds and 1 tsp cumin seeds together for 1–2 minutes until the sesame turns a shade darker and starts to pop.

Step 4: Cool everything for a few minutes, then grind to a fine powder in a spice grinder or blender. Add 100 ml of ½ cup water and blend to a very smooth, thick paste. A smooth paste gives the silky salan texture; a gritty one stays grainy however long you cook it.

Step 5: Reheat the chilli oil over a medium heat. Add ½ tsp mustard seeds; when it crackles, add ½ tsp nigella seeds (kalonji), ¼ tsp fenugreek seeds and 15 curry leaves and stir for 10 seconds, until the fenugreek turns reddish-brown. Don't let the fenugreek go dark or it's bitter.

Step 6: Add 1 onion and fry for 6–7 minutes, until soft and golden at the edges. Stir in 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste and cook for 1 minute until the raw smell goes, then add ½ tsp ground turmeric and 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder and stir for 20 seconds.

Step 7: Add the nut paste and fry it, stirring constantly, for 3–4 minutes over a medium-low heat, until it darkens a shade and oil starts to bead at the edges. Keep it moving; peanut paste catches easily.

Step 8: Pour in the remaining 1 ¼ cups water, then add 1 ½ tbsp tamarind paste, 1 tsp jaggery or brown sugar and 1 tsp salt. Stir well and bring to a simmer. The gravy should be like thick pouring cream; add a splash more water if it's stiff.

Step 9: Slide the fried chillies into the gravy, cover and simmer on a low heat for 8–10 minutes, until the chillies are tender and the oil floats on top in little red pools. Taste: it should be nutty, tangy and slightly sweet. Adjust salt or tamarind, scatter with 2 tbsp fresh coriander and rest for 10 minutes before serving so the flavours settle.