Mochai kottai kuzhambu

Step 1: Drain the soaked 5 ½ oz dried field beans (mochai) and throw away the soaking water. Put them in a heavy pot with the 4 ¼ cups water, bring to a boil and boil hard for 10 minutes, skimming off the foam.

Step 2: Lower the heat, cover and simmer for 35–40 minutes until a bean crushes easily between two fingers. Drain, keeping 250 ml of the cooking liquid, and tip the beans into a bowl. (Pressure cooker: 5 whistles after the hard boil.)

Step 3: Wipe the pot, heat 3 tbsp sesame oil (gingelly) over a medium heat and add 1 tsp mustard seeds and ¼ tsp fenugreek seeds. When the mustard pops, add 2 sprigs curry leaves and ¼ tsp asafoetida (gluten-free hing).

Step 4: Add 12 shallots and 6 cloves garlic and fry for 4 minutes until golden. Drain the 9 oz small brinjals (aubergines), add it and fry for 4 minutes until the cut sides are lightly browned.

Step 5: Add 1 tomato, ½ tsp ground turmeric and 2 tbsp sambar powder and cook for 3 minutes until the tomato is soft and the powder smells toasty.

Step 6: Squeeze and strain the 1 oz tamarind, pour in the juice with the saved bean liquid, 1 tsp jaggery and 1 ¼ tsp salt, and bring to a boil.

Step 7: Add the beans and simmer, partly covered, for 15 minutes, stirring now and then, until the brinjal is soft and the gravy is thick enough to coat a spoon, with oil showing at the edges.

Step 8: Rest for 10 minutes before serving with rice and a spoon of sesame oil. It keeps for 3 days in the fridge and thickens as it stands; loosen with a splash of water.