Japanese
Vegan
Gluten freeNozawanazuke
Pickled turnip greens
野沢菜漬け: long turnip-green stalks salted with chilli and kombu in the snows of Nozawa Onsen, green at first, amber by spring
In the snowy hot-spring village of Nozawa Onsen in northern Nagano, early November is 'onsen washing' time: families carry armfuls of nozawana, a turnip relative with stalks taller than a child, to the steaming public spring to wash them, then salt them in big barrels for winter. The pickle is the region's tea-time snack, set out with green tea for neighbours, and the side for every winter meal. In the first weeks it is bright green, crisp and lightly salty (aozuke); by late winter it ferments to a golden-brown, sour 'ame-iro' stage, which locals chop and fry with sesame oil. Outside Japan use turnip greens, young mustard greens or the stems of komatsuna or choy sum. The common mistake is salting straight from cold water: rinsing in hand-hot water (around 40 °C) for a minute softens the stalks so the salt penetrates evenly. It is ready when the stalks are flexible, a vivid deep green and taste salty, juicy and fresh. Chef's tip: cut it into 3 cm lengths right before serving and toss with a drop of sesame oil and toasted sesame seeds.
- Prep
- 40 min
- Cook
- 0 min
- Difficulty
- Easy
- Serves
- 10
- Per serving
- 20 kcal
Ingredients
For the pickle
- 3 ⅓ lb nozawana or turnip greensor young mustard greens, komatsuna or choy sum
- 1 ¾ oz coarse sea saltabout 3.5% of the greens' weight
- ⅓ oz kombucut into thin strips
- 3 dried red chilliesseeds removed, in rings
To serve
- 1 tsp toasted sesame oil (optional)
- 1 tsp toasted sesame seeds (optional)
Tick what you have; the rest goes in the basket.
Method
0/6 doneStep 1: Clean the jar or container and lid: wash in hot soapy water, rinse, then dry in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes (or pour boiling water over and in it and air-dry upside down). Let it cool; it must be completely dry.
Step 2: Trim the roots off the 3 ⅓ lb nozawana or turnip greens and remove any yellow leaves. Wash them in several changes of water, then swish in hand-hot water (about 104°F) for 1 minute until the stalks feel slightly softer. Drain.
15 minStep 3: Cut into lengths that fit your container (or leave whole if it is long). Lay a layer in the container, sprinkle with some 1 ¾ oz coarse sea salt, ⅓ oz kombu and 3 dried red chillies, then add the next layer turned the other way. Repeat, finishing with salt.
15 minStep 4: Press down firmly, put a plate on top and weigh down with about twice the greens' weight. Leave in a cool place (below 50°F, or the fridge) for 1–2 days, until brine rises above the greens; then halve the weight.
5 minStep 5: Leave 4–5 more days in the cold, until the stalks are flexible and a deep vivid green and taste lightly salty. Normal: a little cloudiness and sour smell later on. Bad: fuzzy coloured mould, slime or a rotten smell; throw it away.
Step 6: Keep it in the fridge, in its brine, for up to 1 month; it slowly turns sour and amber. To serve, squeeze a handful, cut into 3 cm pieces and toss with 1 tsp toasted sesame oil and 1 tsp toasted sesame seeds if you like.
5 min
KrazyBadal
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