Jushi (Okinawan mixed rice)

Step 1: Soak 3 dried shiitake mushrooms in ¾ cup warm water for 15 minutes. Soak ⅛ oz dried hijiki seaweed in a separate bowl of cold water at the same time, then drain the hijiki.

Step 2: Rinse 16 oz Japanese short-grain rice in cold water 4 or 5 times until the water runs almost clear, then leave to drain in a sieve.

Step 3: Squeeze the mushrooms dry, keeping their soaking water, cut off the stems and slice the caps thinly.

Step 4: Heat 1 tbsp lard or vegetable oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Stir-fry 5 ½ oz pork belly, skin removed until no pink remains and the fat starts to render, about 3 minutes.

Step 5: Add 1 carrot, the mushrooms and the hijiki and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Season with 2 tbsp soy sauce and ½ tsp salt.

Step 6: Add the rice and stir for 1 minute until every grain is glossy.

Step 7: Mix 2 cups bonito dashi with the strained mushroom water and make it up to 540 ml with water if needed. Pour it over the rice and stir once. Common mistake: adding the soy and stock and then topping up to the usual water line; the rice turns soft and sticky, so measure the total liquid instead. In a rice cooker, use the same amount of liquid and the normal setting.

Step 8: Cover tightly and bring to the boil over medium-high heat, then cook over the lowest heat for 13 minutes without lifting the lid.

Step 9: Turn off the heat and leave covered for 10 minutes. Fold through gently with a rice paddle, scraping up the toasty layer from the bottom, and serve topped with 3 tbsp spring onions or mugwort leaves. Leftovers make good rice balls; cool quickly and refrigerate within an hour, and eat within a day.